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Hiraeth
D. A. Ratliff
Hiraeth: A deep homesickness; an intense form of longing or nostalgia for a place long gone, or even an unaccountable homesickness for a place you have never visited.
Home.
My true home was over three thousand miles away, but the moment I stepped from the ferry’s gangplank onto the pier, an overwhelming sense of peace and calm enveloped me. It was nearing midnight, and despite the bustle of activity around the dock, I stood still, relishing the feeling that I belonged in this place. The emotions took me by surprise. Why did I come to this archipelago in the North Sea? I needed to find out.
I ordered an Uber ride before the ferry docked, and a car was waiting for me. The young driver graciously retrieved my bags from the luggage area, and we were soon on our way to Kirkwall, the main city on the isle of Orkney.
“Ms. Findlay, your first time on Orkney?” I smiled at the deep brogue, forcing me to listen closely. The Scots had a unique command of the English language.
“Yes, it is. I wanted to see the ancient sites.”
“Ah, you’ll not be disappointed. I’m Tamron Reid. I am going to university in Glasgow to study archaeology. This summer, I’m taking part in a survey of several sites by a team from Cambridge University. You should come to the sites and spend some time with us. I am sure Dr. Stuart would be happy to show you around. We are at the Ring of Brodgar most of the time.”
“I’d like that.”
He continued to tell me about their study sites until we reached the hotel. He helped me take my bags into the lobby and then, after asking permission, texted me his name and number. As he departed, I approached the front desk to check in.
A man with silver hair greeted me with a broad smile and then turned his gaze to the computer monitor. “Welcome to the Kirkwall Hotel. May I have your name? We’ll get you checked in and to your room.”
“Yes, the reservation is under Findlay—Isla Findlay.”
The desk clerk’s head snapped up. His eyes were wide as he stared at me. My skin prickled at his reaction. “Is there something wrong?”
He sucked in a breath while staring and stammered when answering. “No—everything is fine. I knew a wee lass named Isla many years ago. Your name just struck me.” He looked back at the monitor. “I see you plan on staying with us for at least two weeks?” I answered yes, and he continued. “Wonderful. May I see your passport and credit card?”
I handed him the documents. “It’s so nice to be where people know how to pronounce my name. Back home, I get ‘ell sa,’ not ‘eye la.’ Spend a lot of time explaining how to say it.”
The clerk swallowed. “It’s a lovely name.” He pressed a buzzer, and a young man appeared through a side door. “Denny will take you to your room. Since you’ll be with us for so long, I’ve given you a large room facing the harbor. I hope you’ll be comfortable. Enjoy your stay with us.”
Denny gathered my bags, and as we waited at the elevator, I glanced back at the clerk. He continued to stare at me as if he had seen a ghost. I shivered. Why would he have such a reaction to me and my name?
Once in the room, I slipped off my shoes, flopped on the bed, and Facetimed my best friend. Sabrina squealed when she answered.
“You made it.”
“Yes. Although, I’m going to take a plane back to London. The ferry ride from Aberdeen was great but a very long six hours.”
“I still don’t understand why you chose a Scottish island in the North Sea when you could be on the Riviera, Paris, or Rome. It can’t be warm.”
“After everything, Brin, I wanted to go somewhere quiet and untouristy. I told you before I left I had no idea why Orkney Island was so appealing to me. But the second I left the ferry, I felt comfortable. But what was weird was the hotel desk clerk looked at me like I was a ghost.”
“You’re pretty. Bet he was smitten.”
“No, he’s old enough to be my grandfather. Very strange.”
“Speaking of strange, Tim and I ran into Eric at dinner last night. He asked about you.”
“Oh, he did?”
“Yes, and I told him you were doing great and touring Europe. Maybe a bit of a white lie, but he doesn’t have to know.”
“What did he say?”
“Got that pissy look on his face and said, ‘guess she’s enjoying herself on my money,’ to which I replied, ‘you bet she is.’”
I laughed. “Brin, you’re the best.”
“Jerk thinks he can pull what he tried to on you and get away with it. No way.”
“Tired here. Got acclimated to the time zone by spending the last ten days in London. Going to take a shower and go to sleep. Talk to you tomorrow.”
Ending the call, I did just that.
~~~
The sun came up at the far too early hour of four-ten a.m. I had forgotten to draw the drapes, and by five a.m., light flooded my room. I vaguely remember stumbling to the window, pulling the blinds, and flopping back onto the bed. The next time I woke, it was a little after eight.
I looked out the window overlooking the harbor for my first daylight view of Kirkwall. The sky was azure blue and dotted with white clouds, but dark clouds lay on the horizon. The small harbor was large enough for a few small cruise ships and was dotted with colorful tents announcing various cruise lines. It appeared that Orkney was more touristy than I thought.
Hunger pangs hit, and I dressed and headed to the hotel restaurant. I was not adventurous enough to try haggis or kippers, so I ordered eggs scrambled with veggies and vegetarian sausage. After breakfast, I decided to explore the historical old Norse town before thinking about venturing into the countryside. The air smelled briny and, despite the sunshine, was cool. I was thankful for the heavy sweater I had brought.
My hotel was built in the 1600s, and the town was founded in the early 11th century. As I began to walk along a narrow stone-paved street, a feeling that I belonged on Orkney hugged me like a second skin. Quaint was not an appropriate word for Kirkwall. With every curve and turn in the streets, another gift store, bakery, or restaurant appeared. I browsed in the stores and had a piece of Millionaire’s Shortbread.
What surprised me was the feeling people were staring at me. Kirkwood was a significant transportation hub. The residents had to be used to strangers milling about. Maybe it was me. I was in an unfamiliar place, unlike the Maryland suburbs of Washington, DC, where I lived. I was overreacting and shook it off.
My wanderings brought me to the most famous landmark in town, the St. Magnus Cathedral. The soaring structure, constructed of red and yellow sandstone that reflected their primary colors in the sunlight, was over eight hundred years old. I entered, and yet another wave of calm enveloped me.
Soaring pillars of sandstone brick supported the ceiling, and I admired the carved woodwork and stained glass as I walked around. While I embraced my faith, I was not a regular attendee, but I sat in the simple pews absorbing the peace and realized I had missed the sense of belonging.
I sat quietly, losing track of time, when I noticed an older woman rise from a pew in front of me to leave. She smiled as she approached, then stopped.
“Lassie, you have no idea how much you look like my old friend. It’s a pleasure to see that bonnie face again. Seeing you has made me happy.” She began to walk away.
“Ma’am, someone else told me the same thing. I looked like someone they knew. Who is it?”
“Ah, it was too long ago. It doesn’t matter now. Have a good day.”
The woman shuffled away, and I was too confused to press her. I had to find out why I was getting attention.
I left the cathedral and retraced my steps to a little bistro in the old section. Luckily, I got a table after a short wait and had lunch. I browsed through a bookstore nearby and, on the way back to the hotel, stopped to arrange for a rental car the following day. Tired, I took a nap, had a quick dinner at the hotel, and read a book about Orkney Island I got at the bookstore until I became sleepy. Tomorrow, I planned to explore the island.
~~~
The early summer sunrise had me awake and downstairs having breakfast by six a.m., then off to explore. I decided to visit the Ring of Brodgar first, as it was the most impressive site on the island. My biggest worry was driving on the left side of the road. The land was verdant green among rolling ridges. Sheep, cows, solar windmills, and cultivated fields shared the terrain with the occasional house and barn. Eventually, the road followed the seashore through the village of Finntown, filled with sandstone homes and a pub or two.
Ancient stone walls and numerous houses and farms lined the road out of Finntown. After turning onto the road leading to the Ring, I drove past a smaller display of the slab monoliths that dotted the area. At the approach to the bridge leading to the next island, a stone slab stood like a sentinel guarding the way.
The first site of the Ring of Brodgar took my breath away. A ring of stone slabs stood on a low knoll, some with angular tops and some broken. I pulled into the parking lot filled with cars and tour buses and crossed the road to the path leading to the stones.
The feeling of drifting back in time was overwhelming as I neared the stones. I never believed in reincarnation, yet I felt like I had lived here in another life. I was surprised that tourists could walk among the stones along the trench where they sat. I had walked only a short distance when I heard my name called.
“Ms. Findlay. Over here.” Tamron Reid was standing with a group of people and waving to me.
“Hello, Tamron, and please call me Isla.”
He grinned. “Sure. Let me introduce you to Dr. Stuart and the others.”
Dr. Caelan Stuart was my age, with a broad smile, warm green eyes, and a very slight brogue. After introductions, he offered to tell me about the ring.
“We call it the Ness of Brodgar as we look at the entire promontory, not just the Ring. Activity in this area goes back to 5000 BC, but the Ness dates to about 2900 BC. The stones you saw on your way here are far older. The Watchstone just before the bridge may be from a later period.” He touched a massive stone. “We believe the trench was dug about 2600 BC, but they may have erected the stones before or after that.”
“Do you know why they are here?”
Caelan shook his head. “Not really. We believe this was a gathering place, and generation after generation added or removed stones.”
“Like calling cards?”
“That’s possible. Are you interested in seeing what we are doing?”
“Yes, I am.”
That simple yes turned into several days. Nearing the end of my first week on the island, Caelan asked me if I would like to stay with the group for the rest of the summer as one of the students had become ill and left. If I had time, that is. I did not hesitate to say yes and extended my stay at the hotel for several weeks.
I was at peace more than I had been in my life. The only nagging worry was that some people in town still seemed to recognize me, yet no one would tell me why. I needed to know.
Three weeks into my ‘job’ as an archaeological assistant, Caelan asked me to dinner. It was no secret that we were becoming close. Whether more than friends was too early to tell, but dinner alone with him for a change was nice.
He took me to a cozy restaurant a few steps from the hotel. As we were looking over the menu, he laughed. “Not a five-star dining experience, but the food is great.”
“No need for crystal and chandeliers. I love this place.”
“That is obvious, but why? You told me that you have no ties to Scotland. You were a biology major now teaching high school, so why here?”
“I don’t know. When I decided, I wanted a total change of scenery for a while. I told you I was divorced. I didn’t tell you that he rushed the divorce, not that it didn’t need to happen, but his attorney pushed my attorney to settle faster and offered a few concessions. A little background—we met in college, where he was a programming major. I had intended to go into medical research, so I took computer science as a minor to my biology degree.”
“Wise.”
“I thought so, but he wanted to start a computer business, designing apps for companies. We couldn’t do that with me in grad school, so I put school off and got a teaching certificate. You know how that goes—too many years passed. The company became successful, and I was still teaching and doing all of the company’s administrative work, accounting, and writing code. Then he met someone, a fellow teacher cohort of mine, and wanted a divorce. After the divorce was final, I learned that he sold his company and services to a larger group for several million dollars the next day.”
“Oh my, not a nice man.”
“No, so long story short, I sued. He settled rather quickly or would lose the deal—his buyers didn’t like being embroiled in domestic warfare. When I had the means to travel, I came across a story about Orkney and felt compelled to come.” I took a deep breath as I began to tremble. “I have felt at home since I stepped off the ferry as if I lived here before.”
Caelan smiled. “There is something magical about this place. No family?”
“A mother on her fourth marriage, this time to a casino owner in Vegas. I doubt she realizes I am gone.”
We spent the remainder of dinner talking about his childhood in Glasgow and education at Oxford and then Cambridge. He recanted fascinating tales about the digs he’d been on, and I became increasingly intrigued by the subject.
It was when we were finishing dessert that it happened. Diners at a table next to us rose to leave. An older man in his eighties had his back to me. As he turned and saw me, he began screaming, “She’s alive. But he killed her. I know he killed her.”
A woman with him grabbed his arm. “Dad, that’s not her. She’s far too young. Let’s go home.”
“No, it’s her.”
A man with them gently steered the older man, sobbing, out of the restaurant. The woman turned toward me. Her eyes were wide like many others who had looked at me that way. “I’m sorry. You resemble someone he loved very much. Sorry for the intrusion.” She turned and fled before I could stop her.
Caelan motioned to the server for the check. “Need to get you to the hotel.”
“Something is going on, Caelan. Why do these people think they know me?”
“I don’t know, but we need to find out.”
~~~
The next day I was agitated and couldn’t concentrate. Caelan sent me to town, saying he would stop by later. When I got to the hotel, I took a hot shower and a couple of ibuprofen tablets and fell asleep. A knocking on my door woke me up. I had no idea how long I’d slept as daylight streamed into my window. Summer in Orkney was daylight until ten p.m.
I opened the door to find the woman from the restaurant. My knees nearly buckled.
“May I come in, Ms. Findlay?” I nodded and stepped aside as she entered the room.
She sat in the chair. I sat on the edge of the bed. “Who are you, and why are you here?”
“What I was going to ask you.” She bit her lower lip. “The man with me last night is my father and perhaps your great uncle.”
I was shaking. “How, what—I don’t understand.”
“My name is Ainslie MacKay Hunter. My father’s sister’s name was Isla Mackay, and she married Lachlan Findlay, and they had a son Ewan. You are from the States, and Ewan Findlay worked as an engineer in the US about thirty years ago. To our knowledge, he never married while there, and he never had a child. You seem to be proof that he at least has a child.”
She pulled a photo out of her purse and handed it to me. The dark-haired woman in the photo could have been my twin. “How? Look, my mother never told me who my father was. She lied and faked a name on my birth certificate.”
“Yet she named you after my aunt. I do not believe in coincidences.”
“Why did he leave if he knew about me.”
“I don’t think he did. Ewan Findlay is not that kind of man. Let me explain why he left. My aunt, your grandmother, Isla, was murdered. Everyone loved her, but your grandfather had a horrid temper, and everyone was certain Lachlan killed her. Ewan came home to defend his father and to find out who killed her. Your grandfather had a sketchy alibi at best, but Ewan managed to convince the procurator fiscal not to charge him. After that, Ewan took his father to London, where I believe Ewan remains. I have not seen my cousin in years.”
“Can you help me find him?”
“I will try.”
Ainslie left, and I sank onto the bed sobbing, then my tears turned to anger. My mother knew why my father left, and she would never tell me. As always, I picked up my phone and got voice mail when I called her.
“Mom, I know who my father is, and I am livid you never told me and, likely, didn’t tell him. Yet you named me after his mother, even giving me his last name but telling me you made it up. How could you?”
As soon as I ended the call, waves of panic overtook me. I had to get away. It was beginning to rain. I grabbed a raincoat and my keys and took off. I drove as fast as I dared in the increasingly heavy rain and found myself at the Ring of Brodgar. I parked and ran toward the monuments before I sank beside one leaning against it for support. I sat there for what felt like hours, sobbing. I knew now I was home, but how.
A beam of light reached me through the darkness. My fear turned to relief as Caelan knelt before me and hugged me. “I was heading into town and thought that was you driving like a maniac. Took me forever to find a place to turn around. Tell me what’s wrong.”
He listened without comment while I told him what Ainslie said, then pulled me close. “We will find your father, I promise.”
I thought I couldn’t cry anymore, but tears once again spilled down my cold cheeks. “Is this why I came here? Because my father is from here.”
“After we talked about why you felt compelled to come, I remembered an old Welsh word that has its roots in Celtic lore. The word is hiraeth. It means homesickness creating an intense longing for a place, even if you have never been there or even known of it. I think that’s what you felt, a longing for Orkney because it is in your blood.”
“I remember a Native American friend, a Seminole, telling me that when he visited the Florida Everglades, he felt a peace come over him that he had never experienced before. A peace because he viewed the land through the eyes of his ancestors.”
He stood and pulled me up. “I think that is what you have done. Now, let’s get you back to the hotel.”
~~~
A week passed. Ainslie texted me she had done what she could and that all we could do was wait. I was looking at markings on one of the stones with Caelan when I heard someone call my name. I froze. I knew that voice even though I had never heard it before. Caelan smiled and nodded.
“Turn around, Isla.”
I turned, and a dark-haired man who looked much like me stood with his arms open.
I ran.
I was home.
Please visit Deborah on her blog: /daratliffauthor.wordpress.com